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Umhelling, nauðsyn, óþarfi eða sýndarmennska?

Umhelling eða “dekantering” á ægilega ljótri íslensku, er umdeild og valfrjáls athöfn sem felst í því að hella víninu af flöskunni yfir í annað ílát, t.d. karöflu (skrautflösku).

Aðalástæðan fyrir umhellingu er að losna við botnfallið í flöskunni sem hvorki er  sérlega girnilegt né bragðast vel. Áður en vínframleiðendur lærðu aðferðina að sía vín var nauðsynlegt að sía öll vín. Í dag eru deildar meiningar um hvort eða hvenær eigi að umhella víni. Sumir halda því fram að umhelling eigi aðeins að eiga sér stað þegar um mjög gömul vín er að ræða sem hafa í áranna rás myndað botnfall.

Sérstaklega árgangs portvín “Vintages Port” mynda mikið botnfall þar sem þau eru átöppuð snemma á þróunarferlinu. Sama gildir um vín frá Rhone héraðinu í Frakklandi en þau fara í gegnum lágmarkssíun. Það er sjaldgæft að ung ódýr hversdagsvín myndi botnfall. Góð aðferð til að komast að því hvort vínið innihaldi botnfall er að láta flöskuna standa upp á endann í 24 tíma og halda henni svo varlega upp að ljósi. Þannig getur maður klárlega séð í gegnum flöskuna og vínið.

Önnur hefð og mjög umdeild ástæða fyrir umhellingu er að það hjálpar angan vínsins að þróast og víninu sjálfu að þroskast. Einn af fremstu “önolog” frakka Émile Peynaud hafði mikil áhrif á vínframleiðslu og vínneyslu á árunum um og eftir heimstyrjöldina síðari, en eftir heimstyrjöldina síðari vann hann einmitt með Ribéreau-Gayon sem hefur verið kallaður faðir nútímavínfræði. Peynaud var á móti umhellingu á vínum á þeim forsendum að það myndi missa bæði lykt og bragð og einu vínin sem þyrftu á umhellingu að halda væru vín sem hefðu myndað botnfall, og þau ætti að umhella rétt fyrir framreiðslu. Ef um yngri vín er að ræða þá er að sögn Peynaud nóg að þyrla því upp í glasinu.

Staðreyndin er engu að síður sú að vín er landbúnaðarafurð og eins og flest allar ef ekki allar landbúnaðarafurðir þá breytist vínið þegar það kemst í snertingu við súrefni. Rétt eins og kjöt sem stendur óvarið í hita byrjar að rotna eða mjólkin sem stendur á borðinu of lengi byrjar smá saman að súrna og osturinn byrjar að svitna og þorna.
Vissulega hefur umhellingin áhrif á vínið, spurningin er bara hvort áhrifin eru jákvæð eða neikvæð.

Eins og áður er nefnt getur verið nauðsynlegt að umhella árgangs portvínum og gömlum rauðvínum. Hins vegar ber að varast að umhella mjög gömlum vínum of snemma þar sem þau geta hreinlega oxygerst á mjög skömmum tíma. Greinarhöfundur drakk fyrir 3 árum Chateau Branier Ducru 1979, Bordeaux vín í háum gæðaflokki sem við förum ekki nánar inn á í þetta skiptið. Víninu var ekki umhellt en þetta var skemmtileg upplifun. Til að byrja með var vínið alveg frábært en þegar tíminn leið gátum við fylgst þróuninni á víninu og eftir eina klukkustund var vínið ónýtt, gjörsamlega oxyderað og ódrekkandi.

Til gamans má geta þess að á sama tíma drukkum við sama vín en árgang ´78 og það stóð sig mun betur, sem segir okkur hvað árgangurinn getur skipt miklu máli en ´78 var örlítið betra en ´79.
En það skal þó tekið fram að meðferð víns og geymsla hefur vissulega sitt að segja en ekki skal ég ábyrgjast að báðar flöskur hafi notið sömu umönnunar.

Ódýrari vín eru oftast átöppuð mjög snemma og hafa þar af leiðandi ekki þróast eða þroskast né myndað karakter, snertingin við súrefni setur þetta ferli í gang. Í ungum vínum sem eru opnuð og drukkin strax má oft finna mikla sýru en við umhellingu minnkar sýran og vínið verður mýkra og aðgengilegra fyrir vikið. Svipuð áhrif hefur umhellingin á eldri vín það er eins og þau verði meiri og þéttari. Hins vegar skal haft í huga að því yngri sem  vínin eru því lengri tíma þurfa þau í karöflunni.

Þó á þetta ekki við um öll ung og ódýr vín, í sumum tilfellum hefur umhellingin á slíkum vínum ekkert að segja. Hins vegar þá lítur vín í karöflu altaf vel út, munið bara að setja flöskuna líka á borðið svo gestirnir geti virt hana fyrir sér.

Að framkvæma umhellingu svo vel sé þarf að hafa  ýmislegt í huga.
Best er að láta flöskuna standa upp á endann í sólahring, gjarnan lengur ef vínið inniheldur mikið botnfall. Það þarf að tryggja að karaflan sé hrein og lykti líka hrein (ekki nota upþvottalög, hann situr á glerinu). Maður lyftir flöskunni varlega upp og heldur henni upp að ljósi (kerti, lampa án skerms, vasaljósi osfr.) til að gera sér grein fyrir hversu mikið botnfallið er.  Eftir að flaskan hefur verið opnuð ákaflega varlega og án þess að halla henni eða snúa eru hugsanleg  óhreinindi á stútnum þurrkuð. Þar næst er hellt varlega úr flöskunni yfir í karöfluna og kertið eða ljósið látið vera á bakvið flöskuna svo hægt sé að sjá í gegn. Maður fylgist vel með flöskuhálsinum og þegar botnfallið kemur að öxlum flöskunnar er umhellingunni lokið. Í sumum tilfellum kemur botnfallið fyrst sem slikja og hana ber einnig að forðast að fá í karöfluna. Nú er umhellingunni lokið en býsna mikið getur verið eftir í flöskunni og þykir mörgum nóg um þar sem um dýra dropa er oft að ræða. Hægt er að sía restina af víninu þó ekki sé nú mælt með því, en ef fólk vill þá skal nota algjörlega hreint lín, kaffifilter er ekki ráðlegt að nota þar sem hann skilur eftir sig þræði.

Gangi ykkur vel og munið að það er til vín fyrir öll tækifæri og allan mat.

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